New Orleans City Guide - overview

When Jean Baptiste Le Moyne picked out the strategic spot on the Mississippi River for his French colony in 1718, little did he know that he had doomed a future city to tragedy nearly 290 years later. Situated on a swamp, and surrounded by the sea, Lake Pontchartrain and the Mississippi River, the subsiding city of New Orleans chose to swim rather than sink with the construction of a system of levees, pumps and canals to protect the city from flooding.

However, on the 30 August 2005 Hurricane Katrina, one of the worst hurricanes ever to hit the United States, slammed into the region, catapulting New Orleans into world headlines that followed the struggle of the community to cope with extensive damage, loss of life and the flooding of more than 75 percent of the city.

Despite the 'I told you so' attitude of much of the world, the proud residents of New Orleans were more determined than ever to rebuild their city, to bring back the jazz, the extravagant celebrations and the 'Big Easy' lifestyle that once made it the party capital of America. Local musicians are returning home, after-dark options are burgeoning and the strains of jazz and blues rhythms are once again echoing through the streets of the atmospheric French Quarter. Legendary Bourbon Street continues to host carnivals and parades, including the annual Mardi Gras, which has a reputation for being the most scandalous and sensational event on the world's festival calendar.

Besides all the partying, New Orleans has plenty of serious sightseeing to offer. The city is full of picturesque historic buildings, lush parks, interesting museums displaying everything from voodoo culture to modern technology, riverboats and historic streetcars, and of course jazz cafes. But for now evidence of the calamity, as well as the city's determination to survive, take first place in any visitor's 'to do' list.

Getting around: New Orleans' excellent bus system and streetcar service (the oldest in the country) have not yet fully recovered from Hurricane Katrina, which struck the city in 2005. Many historic streetcars sustained damage during the storm, but those that survived are now operating on the Canal Street and Riverfront lines as well as the central business district portion of the St Charles line. To see the attractions on St Charles and Carrollton Avenues, take the RTA St Charles bus, which now covers the same route the St Charles streetcars once did. Restoration of the St Charles streetcar line is expected to be complete in spring 2008. The RTA bus service is economical and extensive, though it can be slow. Tickets for both buses and streetcars must be paid for in exact change. Various VisiTour passes allow unlimited rides on both. The business, historic and cultural districts, situated on slightly higher ground, escaped major damage and have begun to rebound strongly. Many tourist areas, like the French Quarter, are most enjoyable on foot. Be advised, however, that crime rates have increased since Katrina. Although the worst of the crime tends to occur far from tourist areas, it is still a good idea to keep valuables secure. Metered taxis are inexpensive, and the taxicab bureau has reported more than 1,000 cabs are back on the streets. They can be hailed in the busier areas or phoned for and are the best way of getting around at night. Most taxis can be hired by up to five passengers for a hassle-free and economical tour of the city. The Canal Street Ferry takes passengers across to the suburb of Algiers and is free for pedestrians, offering fine views of the city skyline. Driving a car in New Orleans may be difficult, as city streets were laid out long before the automobile, and many roads are still inaccessible due to hurricane damage. To rent a car, drivers must be 21 and hold a valid driver's license or International Driving Permit. A major credit card and passport (for foreigners) are also required.